I'm not used to having a deadline, but this one would be picked up at the venue within a week. When I was only halfway there, I also had to work over the weekend to get it ready. It's not often you see a European parlor with solid rosewood at the bottom and side, it's probably actually…
Continue reading 'GG184; European rosewood pearls from around 1920 '»
With the stable and stable plate glued and ready, including plugs and buttons, the next step is to assemble the string pins. I use new solid string sticks in ebony where I drilled in 4 mm mother of pearl daughters. They are similar to the handmade originals, but they are all perfectly shaped and you do not have to keep track of which holes the string sticks should sit…
Continue reading 'Batch; Installation of string pins and tuning screws' »
Now that all the guitars have been repaired, got ribs in the lid and bottom and a carbon fiber rod, I mostly work with two at a time until they are ready. First out are the two who had a wooden strip around the bottom. Both get new rosewood in fretboard and stable. GG187 European * bling * parlor, about 1920 In addition, it is a…
There are some minor jobs to do with the body that are not always needed. In this batch, two bottoms had a milled strip of wood around the bottom. Such a strip can usually not be saved unless the bottom is sawn loose. I loosened the bottom by taking the scrap strip instead of later replacing it with…
One of the bigger jobs is to glue the new ribs in the lid. I use the original stable and the holes for the string sticks to place the stable plate in spruce and all the ribs with it as a starting point. First, all plates and ribs are measured and rough-formed and test-mounted loosely. The stable plate is glued together first, I use an underestimated cheap planer with…
After cutting a couple of rib blanks 1 mm too short in the current batch, I got a little angry. It took a quarter of an hour to invent and manufacture a flexible tool so as not to make the same mistake again! The problem is to measure the new ribs inside the lid with the sides in place. I used to measure…
When cracks in the lid (and bottom) approach 1 mm or more, you must fill in with a stick. Trying to press the lid together to glue only works for a while, the built-in tension causes a new crack to open sooner or later. Mostly not in the gluing but right next to it. When you …
The next step is to take care of the body of the guitars in the batch. Some cracking still needs to be done, but I start by thinning the lid. The bottom can be thinned in the roller plaster, but not the lid that is attached to the sides. Instead, it is thinned from the inside with various small planers, knives to scrape with and a small "grinding mouse" with…
The necks have been given their carbon fiber rods and trimmed. Now with a stronger reinforcement of the neck foot. After the carbon fiber rod in the neck and general repair of all bottoms, it is time to make bottom ribs and glue them in place. Ribs are selected and cut from the layer of already formed rib blanks. These are rectangular and quartz sawn spruce ribs, approx.
